MAR
13th

Cichlid Books & Equipment

Books & Equipment I use for Reference

As mentioned in the Cyphotilapia care section the management and re-shaping of certain aspects of the water to be used, allied with good aquarium husbandry is the key to keeping all fish successfully.

It is reasonable to assume that in most parts of the U.K. tap water  is about pH 7-8. In most areas that pH is supported with quite a hard permanent carbonate and mineral content that makes is possible to be used in most situations for Cyphotilapia, after being treated with a suitable "out of the bottle" conditioner, and heated to the required temperature.

Unfortunately that water being used will not give Cyphotilapia the long term quality water that wild-caught fish have been used to, indeed all Cyphotilapias whether wild or tank bred will greatly benefit from high quality water preparation. How far you are willing to go is dependent on budget, facilities and space. For those who want the best I advise the following.

The first stage is to treat the water by passing it through mechanical and carbon media, the mechanical cartridge, there are several different grades, will filter small particles out of tap water.  The carbon cartridge, or cartridges will help re-shape the water thereby making it more suitable for aquarium use by taking out harmful substances. Again there are many different types of carbon cartridges so make sure the ones you choose are best suited for your requirement. I could go into this in much greater detail, but your local retailer should be able to advise you as the water may vary slightly in different areas. Be confident that their products have been proven, over a number of years, ask them to show you the same equipment in use in their operation. Make sure you are satisfied by getting a full technical breakdown of what each cartridge and pod is doing and there are full instructions with their equipment.

All cartridges have to be changed periodically, make sure this is done, leave yourself a good margin of error so you do not encounter any unexplained problems.

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The second stage is to take out all nitrate, then and only then by doing doing very regular partial water changes with nitrate free water will you be in a position to see just how well your fish will grow and prosper. The equipment available, ranges from a simple single device that can be used up to those that are fully automatic for larger applications.

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For all the above equipment, I personally use and recommend contacting Mark Evenden of Devotedly Discus as his equipment meets all the above criteria.

After treatment you may be required to add suitable "adjusters" to get the required pH and hardness, again any good book or fishkeeping magazine covers this in detail.

For those who keep their frontosas in individually filtered tanks I prefer the use of external power filters. If your tank is not big enough to accommodate two of these filters then it is advisable to back up your single power filter with an internal power filter. Should one of them fail then you will not encounter any problems with loss of fish and having to re-seed your new filter etc. The filters I have used over the last twenty years or so without any major problems are made by Eheim. I now hasten to add that I have no commercial interest or otherwise in Eheim, it is just a fact that they are usually the filters that their industry is judged by, but also the most expensive. I guess it is a case of if you buy cheap you may have to pay twice. With external filters there are instructions of what media to use for maintaining a high pH and how they should be packed etc. For heating, factors such as positioning of tanks and ambient room temperature has to taken into account, again any good aquarium book or your local retailer will advise you on this. Lighting has to be somewhat subdued, as frontosas prefer this.

In centralised systems the water is returned from all the connected tanks to a main sump tank via overflow systems. How the sump tank is designed for filtration purposes and what media is used is very much up to the person as he or she will no doubt have taken advice from aquarium builders and the retailers that run such systems. For those that may be considering taking the first step into such a system, on a DIY basis there is an excellent article by Mark Evenden of Devotedly Discus , under his filtration section in the advice page, and his work was published by Practical Fishkeeping magazine.

 


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katonga Tropheus moorii kibwesa Tropheus moorii malasa Tropheus moorii mboko Tropheus moorii moba Tropheus moorii molwe Tropheus moorii mtosi Tropheus moorii siyeswe Tropheus moorii tembwe Tropheus moorii ulwile Tropheus moorii uvira Tropheus moorii zongwe

Altolamprologus compressiceps Altolamprologus calvus Asprotilapia leptura Bathybates fasciatus Bathybates ferox Bathybates minor Bathybates graueri Bathybates horni Bathybates leo Bathybates vittatus Benthochromis tricoti Benthochromis melanoides Boulengerochromis microlepis Callochromis melanostigma Callochromis pleurospilius Callochromis stappersi

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