MAR
13th

The F.A.Q

Some commonly asked questions.

 

Q. What Ph and Hardness of the water should frontosas be kept in?

A.   For the keeping of wild frontosas Ph should be Ph8-Ph8.5. Hardness should be about 17dGh. Tank bred frontosas will tolerate lower values.

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Q. What should the water parameters i.e. nitrite, nitrate etc..be?

A. Please refer to my Equipment page for the relevant information.

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Q.  I have 2 or 3 frontosas. Why does 1 keep harassing/beating up some of the others?

A.   Frontosas should be kept in colonies of at least 6-7 fishes therefore spreading any aggression. Usually the alpha male will tolerate the beta male. If there are more than 2 males then you will have to take out any battered fish. There should be adequate caves, pipes etc. so that females can shelter from the males advances as the females may not be ready to breed. If you keep frontosas you must have at your disposal a spare tank to house fish that you may have to take out, or be prepared to let your LFS take them.

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Q.   What other fish can I keep with my frontosas?

A.   It will be best to keep frontosas on their own, with maybe a few synodontis catfish, but if you are insistent on having other types try some Neolamprologus leleupi and brichardi, but be aware, if they are small enough they may be eaten. It will lead to problems if you keep frontosas with some of the more aggressive species like Tropheus etc.

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Q.   My frontosas are not eating, what do I feed?

A.   This is supposing your water parameters are good then any good brand of frozen white bait, cockle, mussel, krill etc. Dry foods like pellet must be fast sinking. If your frontosas are in good condition, do not be afraid of not feeding for several days as this will give a good chance for your tank to get "back on track" and give the fish a healthy appetite. Wild frontosas should be fed every other day only once or twice at the most.

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Q. I have a female holding eggs, what do I do?

A.   You should have a small tank with mature water and sponge filter or similar already set up. Have a pipe or cave to shelter the female as this will make her feel more comfortable. Incubation period is usually about 5-6 weeks depending on temperature. When the fry are released refer to my Frontosa care pages (page 3) as to the raising of them.

Q. My frontosa(s) keep bobbing at the water surface, what is the remedy?

A.   Of all the problems encountered with frontosas this is perhaps the most contentious issue. This problem usually affects only wild-caught fish, no doubt due to injuries during the de-compression stages as the divers bring the fish up in the water column.

As with every animal there are going to be some whose internal physiology are going to be somewhat weaker than most, and it is in that there lies the answer, as the divers bring up all the fish together, usually. Unfortunately it will be the weaker ones that may "bob".

Many people have written different articles about such things like "genetic encoding" (frontosas are evolved to feed at depths, not at the surface), stressed fish in a colony will "bob" and of course how to cure "bobbing" with syringes etc.

All of them have been good relevant articles and have proved fairly successful, including moving bobbing (stressed?) fish to a new location.

It is interesting to note that in the hundreds and hundreds of tank-bred frontosas I have seen, including adults (all of which sometimes feed at the surface) I have not witnessed one "bobber".

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Q. What lighting can I use to show off the best colours in my frontosas?

A.   With wild-caught frontosas they will be used to subdued lighting especially some of the Zaire Blues that may have been caught at 40 metres or more.

After they have settled down the lighting can be increased and the best "natural" lighting I have seen in use is the ReefSun 50/50 as sold by Zoo Med. Their OceanSun is especially good with close approximation to daylight, but still brings out the blue hues in frontosas.

Of course if you can sight your tank to receive partial daylight for a few hours, then you can witness the spectacular colours of frontosas, especially the Zaire Blues.

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Q. Can I feed Beefheart?

A.   The short answer is no. But there are many that feeds beefheart without any ill effects. Commercially prepared cichlid mix sometimes uses turkey heart and spinach etc. It is the gristle and fat that the frontosas struggle to digest and the available acids that is needed to breakdown fat and gristle is not strong enough. As usual the choice is up to the fishkeeper, but there are more than enough fast growing, high protein foods available without any side effects that may be incurred by feeding beefheart.

 


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Altolamprologus compressiceps Altolamprologus calvus Asprotilapia leptura Bathybates fasciatus Bathybates ferox Bathybates minor Bathybates graueri Bathybates horni Bathybates leo Bathybates vittatus Benthochromis tricoti Benthochromis melanoides Boulengerochromis microlepis Callochromis melanostigma Callochromis pleurospilius Callochromis stappersi

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